Spa of South this time!

Attending a marriage in Kovilpatti was on the cards and a day to spare before that meant something good to plan as five of us were game for the trip. Courtallam looked the best bet considering the peak season that prevails there in July.

After a tiresome journey from Bangalore to Tenkasi and we landed bit late to start our day. You can feel the winds from the Shencottah pass easily when you approach Podhigai hills and this time I had my own doubts on the season as I kept looking at the kms as we neared Tenkasi and only scorching morning sun was welcoming us all the way. We got into a Hotel next to the bus station and got ready for that days fun …I would not do justice to our trip if I miss to mention "Hygiene Mama" tag Kannan had aptly put up for Santhosh based on the earlier trips. And this time around we were in for a new addition, he wanted to take bath in the hotel before going to the Courtallam falls and was very adament on that. Hmmm, sila samayam appadi thaaan.

Morning view of the Pothigai Hills from our Hotel

We hired an auto for the day and enquired about flow level in the falls. We got different set of answers from people in Tenkasi whomever we asked. The typical kuttrala saral was also missing and we proceeded with our fingers crossed to the Old falls. Gosh !! to our horror the flow at Old falls was so poor that our hotel shower could have done more justice as there were enough people fighting for that small flow falling down. We decided to check out the main falls next as we were told by people that, flow of water was bit ok there.

Sorry pic of the Old Falls

We had some jack fruits and we decided to try out the pathini being sold. Pathini here was one of the best one I ever had and the best part was the tender palm fruit that was smashed along with the Pathini. This combo as per the vendor had the power to set right stomach ailments. These words kept ringing thro' my mind the whole day and i had 6 courses of it!

Pathini guy and the curious eyes

Main Falls with some decent flow

Crowds jostling for their share, spirit of India!

We proceeded to the main falls and were welcomed to some satisfactory flow. Me and Kannan had a quick Oil massage and dashed to the falls to jostle with the crowd for our rightful share of water.

Jagan also came by, but still Santhosh and Madhu were unconvinced with the flow of water and the mad crowds fighting their way. Police supervised bath is what you get in Courtallam if you land in the season and its better to take it as Spirit of India and jump into the crowd. Less water + huge crowds is the worst possible combo you should not encounter any day. Three of us braved our way two – three times into the crowd and ensured that at least the oil on our body had been done away with. Whatever small time we had, taking bath in the gushing waters was an experience in itself.

Five Falls, no comment on the crowd, its all to see.

Next we proceeded to the Five falls to try our luck and lady luck had decided to betray us totally this time. Some 100-150 people were standing in batches waiting for their turn.

Fruits on display, many of them forest ones.

Route we took to the Kundaru Dam

Serene waters of the dam

I felt very much guilty seeing Madhu and Santhosh yet to wet their feet having come to the Spa of the south.
We had good lunch and were contemplating our plans for the rest of the day and now I wanted to try the last astra I had on my hand. Called up Sathya who is a native of Tenkasi to see what else can be done to salvage the day. He heard my bad experience for the day and suggested “Kanni Puli Mettu” which he said was a wild stream near the Kundaru Dam. Promptly we decided to take a shot and directed our vehicle to the Dam. The path towards to the place was a welcome respite from the bustling crowds and looked so prefect a spot to just lie down and take rest for eternity.

We reached the Kundaru Dam and bit of a spill over crowd from Courtallam had made its way to here as well but looked manageable. Further enquires leads us to a stream which feeds the Kundaru Dam. We decided to explore it further upstream and it was indeed interesting as crowd diminished as we kept going further. Roughly were some 1 to 1.5 kms inside and stared enjoying the micro falls that were formed in the course of the stream. Water was very fresh and its flow was decent enough to make us all take a plunge. There were privately held estates on either sides of the stream. We kept exploring one spot or the other and never realized the three hours we spent there. Finally I escaped from the curse of two others who so far had not ventured into any of the regular falls.

We decided to call it a day and reached back to the hotel and got ready to visit the Tenkasi Kasi Viswanthar temple before starting our journey to Kovilpatti. Strong breeze welcomes you in the temple blowing in from the Western Ghats. After having a darshan I sat calmly with the locals near the gopura enjoying the breeze in lawn set along the exit. After twenty odd minutes of natural + man made wonder (read the below information board ) I proceeded to buy some halwa from the Purathan Krishna Lala Kadai (estd. 1904) for Sathya who rates this above the Iruttu Kadai one.

The gopura of Kasi Viswanathar Temple at Tenkasi

We attended the wedding at Kovilpatti and second half of the day at our disposal, two of us decided to make our way to the Nellai appar temple.

Iruttu Kadai - sadly closed

Reaching the spot we decided to try buy some halwa at the Iruttu kadai as we were in time join the queue that builds up before they open for the day, sorry “before they open for the evening”. Lady luck smiled the other way and we discovered that holiday had been declared that day for the shop. We proceeded to visit the Nellai Appar temple. This was the first time I was visiting this temple and the place had lot to offer to any person coming with devotion and inquisitive eyes. We had the Darshan of Nellai Appar (Shiva) and proceeded to have the darshan of Nellai Govindar. I am often intrigued by the Shivite - Vishnavite hostility stories and in contrast how these big Shiva temples have a Vishnu shrine just next to the main Shiva Shrine. A temple employee was giving a brief to the people once they complete the darshan of the main deity about the unique posture of Nellai Govindan wherein he is in sleeping posture rather than the usual Anantha Sayana. The following legend associated with this city was of great interest -

“a poor brahmin called Veda Sharma used to beg for paddy as his alms. The alms he gathered thus were put to dry in sunlight, after which he removed the husk. This was then cooked and this cooked rice called Havis was then offered to the Lord. One day, while he was drying the paddy, it suddenly started to rain heavily. Veda Sharma started praying to the Lord and the merciful Venu Vana Nathar took pity on him and protected the paddy not only from the rain by covering it, but by also standing around it like a fence. Hence, He is also called Nelliappar and the place was thus called Thiru (beautiful), Nel (paddy) and Veli (fence). The place earlier addressed as Venu Vanam was thus changed to Thirunelveli.”

Gopura of the Nellai Appar Temple

Pillared corridor of the Temple

Sculptures on the temple car

Had our darshan of Kanthimathi amman and spent some time exploring the temple which was not enough though. We proceeded next taking an auto to the Nellai Junction. The pep talks what you hear at times from locals is interesting and this time it was the autowallah who conveyed his grievance of the town not developing after 15 years it being declared a corporation. He showed us with pride the two tier Thiruvalluvar Bridge which is Asia’s second largest one. He not only dropped us but helped us identify our bus boarding point. Every time i visit towns and observe the lifestyle of people, there pops up my craving to move to one.

Having missed the Iruttu Kadi halwa, the other option left was Shanti sweets at the junction. Jostling with the crowd was a tough task and got the few kilos I had to buy for everyone as a customary measure. And there ends my yet another sojourn, though a casual one this time!

Tanjore Big Temple Part II

We will explore the outer parahara and the small shrines within the temple complex in the part II of our journey of through this Chola marvel “The Big temple”.

I found one interesting read while mining about this temple which I would like to share with the readers –


The basic unit of the temple's layout, says and expert was taken from the main deity, the linga itself. The inner sanctum, the height of the vimana, the intermediate space between the vimana and the cloistered enclosure (Sri Krishnan Tiruchuttru Maaligai), and the distance to the two gateways called Keralantakan Tiruvaasal and Rajarajan Tiruvaasal were all proportionate to the linga in a remarkable way. For instance, the height of the vimana is exactly twice the width of the outer base of the adhistana (plinth) of the sanctum. The expert says: “The mathematical calculations were advanced to a great extent at the time of Rajaraja Chola.”

The temple complex measures about 240 m east to west in length and about 120 m north to the south in breadth. Experts estimate that the vimana alone has utilised 17,000 cubic metres of masonry. The entire temple complex with its vast enclosure and two gateways amounted to almost 50,000 cubic metres, which is 130,000 tonnes of granite. There no big stone formation in 50km vicinity of the temple and the huge granite stones were brought from the Tiruchi area and the huge stone for the linga was brought from Tindivanam area.

Outer prahara of the temple, observe the nandi sculptures on the wall

Note the small hemispherical formation on the walls, such protrutions were used for interlocking

Inscriptions on the outer wall

There are inscriptions on the walls of the temple complex detailing Raja Raja's reign as well as that of his successors. They reveal that Raja Raja endowed a large number of villages, money and cattle to the temple for its maintenance, daily worship, festivals, singing of devotional songs and dancing. It even gives details of the 400 devadasis of the temple and their door numbers in the two streets near the temple. The administration setup and complete details are also available in the inscription.

Sculptures on the outer wall of the main sanctum

Tripurantaka episode , dont mistake it to be that of Budha(even the guide misguided me on this)

Angry elephant during a war

During the world war II, armed personnel were stationed inside the temple, here APF is Armed Police Force

After spending time around the vimana of the temple, i started towards the small shrines which were added during the later periods ...


Shrines in the temple complex


Ganapathi Shrine

This shrine was added to the temple complex during the period of Sarfoji II.



Subrahmanaya Shrine

Sevappa Nayak, the first of his dynasty who ruled Thanjavur, built the shrine for Murugan (Subrahamanya) as an integral part of the temple. This is a very elaboratory carved granite structure.


Goddess Sri Brihannayagi

This shrine is a later addition, built by the Pandya’s in the 13th century and the front mantapa was added by the Nayak’s.


Karuvurar shrine

Karvarur shrine is located at the rear portion of the temple complex. He was a yogin-alchemist and architect who played a key role in the design and construction of the temple. His famous works are Karuvoorar Vaidya Kaviyam 700, Karuvoorar Pala Thirattu.

Had to these shrines pretty quick as sun was going down and i had to shoot my snaps. Whatever 3 hours i could spend in the temple just seem to have given me a introduction to this wonder and looks like days are required to unravel and appreciate this architectural marvel.

Some quick facts which will help a traveller :

- The Big Temple is located in Tanjore very close to the Old busstand and railhead. Tanjore is well served by town bus services.

- Tanjore is well connected by road and rail. Railway station code - TJ.

- The nearest airport located in Tiruchi is 55kms away.

- Hotel accomodation of all classes is availabe in Tanjore and food is something to cherish once you are in the delta area.

- I would recommend a curious explorer to avoid the summer months as they turn out out to be extremely hot in this area.

Tanjore Big Temple - Part I

Every temple in TN has a name assoicated with it, but this is one temple where its name is synonymus to its size. Welcome to the "Big Temple", the splendor of Chola Architecture!!

My earlier two planned visits to the Big Temple failed due to circumstances and finally opportunity came knocking when I had to attend a colleagues wedding at Tanjore. I had visited the Tanjore temple during my school days roughly about 15 years back and the huge temple with its vast expanse made a lasting impression on me. Being from the land of Pandya’s, I had often compared the Meenakshi Amman temple complex and Big temple which stood at the extreme ends temple architecture. Unlike other well known temples, Big Temple of Tanjore has no sthala purana and was a temple built to showcase the might of a King and his devotion to his favorite deity.

The big temple goes by the names Rajarajeswaram, Peruvudaiyar kovil and Brihadeeswarar Temple which were coined during the various dynasties which ruled the Chola region. Still scholars wonder why Raja Raja chose to construct such a imposing structure. The more acceptable theory states that the building of this temple was to display his towering devotion to lord Shiva and his wish to build a temple unrivalled which was 40 times larger than any other temple in that era. The big temple came under the rule of the following four dynasties: • Chola's 9th – 13th AD • Pandya's till the early part of 14th century • Nayaka's – til the Mid 17th century • Maratha's – till later half of 18th century The temple complex has the major contribution from Raja Raja and thereafter small additions have happened during the reign of Pandyas, Nayakas and the Marathas. This temple complex is very unique in the sense that, you can see tamil inscriptions belonging to the various periods from the 11th century and sanksirt inscriptions put up during the period of Marathas. Even the name Birhadeeswarar is a Sanskrit word which got associated with the temple during the period of Marathas. The big temple complex was completed by Raja Raja in year 1010 AD. As per epigraphic evidence the construction was completed in the 275th day of this 25th year of rule and the temple construction began in his 19th year of rule. One wonders of how such a big temple could be built in 6 years flat taking into account the amount stone and soil to be moved and the lack of powered machinery available in those days. Time and again such temples of grand structures challenge our present day achievements of building big dams and skyscrapers with huge power machines and equipments, when similar feat was achieved with just very simple technology and human labor. Few words about Raja Raja I Rajaraja Chola I (born as Arulmozhivarman) is one the greatest rulers belonging to the Chola empire. Under him, the empire reached new heights expanding the kingdom to the Lanka in the south and till the Kalinga empire region in the south. His rule lasted from 985 to 1014 AD. Raja Raja gopuram built by Raja Raja As you enter the temple two majestic gopuras welcome you, the first one is the Raja Raja gopuram built by Raja Raja. These gopuras in contrast to the later gopuras built by Nayaks are shorter compared to the vimana atop the garbhagraha. Keralaanthagan Gopuram The second imposing gopura which leads you to the main complex is the Keralaanthagan Gopuram which was built by Raja Raja after his victory over the Chera’s. Once you are in the main temple complex, your eyes get glued to the towering central vimana of temple. I was looking for a guide to take me through this complex but in vain I decided to wait. Then lady luck smiled at me, I met a ASI person who not only arranged a guide for me and asked me if I would be interested in coming to the top as he was escorting few people to the top of the temple complex. I had no idea what he meant by top and readly agreed and just followed him not knowing the next 30 odd minutes were going to be unforgettable moments in my life. . We climbed 40feet above the ground level to get into an area which is formed by the outer and inner walls of the vimana structure. Once we reached atop the garbhagraha, lights were switched on unraveling the hollow structure of the vimana which left everyone spell bound. I had never know that the vimana was a hollow structure similar to Pyramids of Giza and the entire structure has been made of stones interlocked with ball and socket joint technique with no binding material used to hold the structurual parts. This was nothing less than a engineering marvel considering the fact that this temple has withstood 6 recorded earthquakes and no major damage has been reported. Structure of the vimana, note the inner and outer wall at the bottom portion view of the inner hollow portion of the vimana lit by flood lights - Photo CC - Frontline The central vimana raises to a height of 216 feet from the ground and has 13 tier strucuture. The ASI person next took us to the Karana gallery which contains the 81 dance postures out of the 108 bharathanatyam postures. There were few difficult dance postures like the dancer applying kumkum on her forehead with her leg, a posture where the head of the dancer is turned to the rear. The stone sculptors depicting the dancing position were brought in as slabs into the structure and then carved. After the dancing postion 81, there are empty granite slabs till 108 which stand unfinished. The whole vimana structure was not carved and put together, rather cholas adopted a unique way of arranging huge slabs of granite one over the other till they reached the top of the structure as per the plan. Then the whole structure was covered with soil, the sculptors then started carving the stucco figures on the granite stone. As and when they completed a level of the structure, the soil was removed and thee kept coming down the structure. Therefore the carving progressed from top to bottom. The following figure will explain this process in detail. Covering the structure with soil and then removing it form top to bottom once sculptor completes the carvings Overall structure of the temple - Photo CC Frontline Currently there is false ceiling at a height of 40 feet over the garbagraha. According to officials, the first floor was built in such a fashion that Raja along with queen could pray and shower flower petals from the top on the deity. Later on Nayakas found the hollow arrangement bit difficult to manage and put the false ceiling at a height of 40 foot. The towering vimana weighs about 43,000 tonnes and has a square base measuring 96 feet. The whole vimana has a foundation of only 7 feet and it is built in such a way that the weight is evenly distributed on the base foundation. The whole vimana structure progresses up in a conical shape and has a shikara weighing 81.28 Tonnes. This massive shikara was moved to this position by building a ramp of 7kms from a village which still exists by the name “Sarapallam”. Earlier the shikara was thought to be a monolithic structure, but later studies have revealed it to made of 2, 3 and even 8 piece structure. No conclusions have been reached on this subject by experts still. The whole of Vimana is built using granite rocks and covered by a thin layer of mortar to preserve the granite sculptures inside. The Rajarajesvaram temple is dedicated to Siva, and the main deity is a massive cylindrical linga in a double-walled, box-like sanctum. The monolithic linga is 1.66 m in diameter and is mounted on an “Avudaiyar” ( yoni-pitha), which is 5.25 m in diameter. The linga rises to a height of two storeys. Nandi Nandi Mandapa Huge Monolithic Nandi Befitting this huge temple is the Nandi which is 3.66 m in height, 5.94 m in length and 2.59 m in breadth. This nandi structure was put by the Nayak’s who felt the earlier smaller Nandi was not doing justice to this huge shrine. Hope you were exited with the Chola engineering marvel, espcially the central vimana. We will explore the prahara of the temple in part II. Stay tuned. Meanwhile to have a glimpse of the complete set of photos check out @ https://picasaweb.google.com/rsubbu.mdu/PicasaTanjore# Subscribe to: Posts (Atom) Blog Archive ▼  2016 (2) ▼  May (1) Hoysala Sojourn.. 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